Memorial Day weekend usually conjures images of sunshine, barbecues, and the unofficial start of summer. For Bella and me, it meant a four-hour drive northwest to the promise of Nordhouse Dunes Wilderness Area – a place of towering sand, whispering pines, and the vast, anrchy beauty of Lake Michigan. Our plan? Dispersed camping, a digital detox (mostly!), and a solid dose of nature.
What we got was all that, and a stark reminder that "Pure Michigan" sometimes means purely unpredictable weather, especially when you're sleeping on the ground in late May.

The million-dollar view that made the chilly nights (almost) worth it.
The Plan vs. Reality: A Chilly Welcome
Our itinerary was straightforward: arrive Friday, set up, enjoy a campfire, hike Saturday, and soak in the sunset before heading home Sunday. Simple, right?
The weather forecast, however, had other ideas. "Cloudy" and "Partly Cloudy" sounded manageable, but the numbers told a different story: highs barely cracking 50°F, with nights plummeting into the high 30s. "Cold!" was my understated note on the packing list. Understatement of the year, perhaps.
We rolled into Free Soil, MI, found a suitably dispersed spot (respecting the 400ft from shore, 250ft from trails rule, of course!), and got to work. The tent went up, a testament to teamwork, and soon a crackling fire was warding off the initial chill. Dinner under the stars (well, thick clouds) was still magical.
But then came the night.
Despite cold-rated sleeping bags, extra blankets, and thermal layers, "chilly" doesn't quite capture it. It was the kind of cold that seeps into your bones, the kind that makes you appreciate every single thread of your sleeping bag and question why you didn't pack that one more fleece.

View from our tent, freezing.
Dunes, Hikes, and Breathtaking Beauty
Saturday morning, though crisp, was a different world. The Nurnberg Trailhead beckoned, and the hike through the dunes was spectacular. Emerging from the wooded trails onto the vast, windswept expanse of sand, with Lake Michigan stretching out to the horizon, is an experience that makes you forget (almost) how cold your toes were a few hours prior.
The beauty of Nordhouse is its raw, untamed nature. There are no designated sites, no neatly paved paths everywhere. It’s you, the sand, the trees, and the water. We spent the afternoon simply being – watching the waves, hoping for a glimpse of wildlife (though they were probably smarter than us and bundled up somewhere warm), and just enjoying the quiet.
The sunset, even through partly cloudy skies, painted the horizon in hues of orange and purple. It was a reminder of why we do this, why we brave the elements. And that view from our tent? Absolutely unbeatable. Waking up, unzipping the door to see the dunes bathed in the soft morning light – that’s a memory etched firmly in my mind.

Worth braving the cold for moments like these.
Lessons Learned: The Art of (Not) Overpacking and Dressing Smart
No trip is complete without a few takeaways, and this one was no exception. Our post-trip reflection was telling:
- Best Moment: Unequivocally, the view from the tent. Worth every shiver.
- What We Forgot (or rather, over-thought): It wasn't so much forgetting, but a miscalculation. We definitely overpacked on water (thinking we'd be further from a source than we were) and lugged a beast of a cooler. The real lesson was in dressing appropriately for the sustained cold. More layers, yes, but also the right kinds of layers – better insulation, wind-proofing that actually works against a stiff lake breeze, and never, ever underestimating the power of good socks and a warm hat, even in May.
- Trip Rating: A solid 7/10. The cold definitely docked a few points, but the sheer beauty and tranquility of Nordhouse saved the day.
Tech on the Trail: A Minimalist Approach
As a software engineer, I'm usually surrounded by screens. This trip was a conscious effort to disconnect, but a few pieces of tech did make the cut:
- Headlamps: Non-negotiable.
- Power Bank: For the phone (mostly for photos and emergency maps).
- Insta360: To capture those panoramic dune views without fumbling too much.
- Bluetooth Speaker: For some low-key tunes around the campfire (kept at a respectful volume, of course!).
It’s a balance – embracing the wild while having a few comforts.
Looking Ahead: Pictured Rocks, We're Coming For You (Better Prepared!)
Every camping trip, especially one with challenges, fuels the desire for the next. Our sights are now set on Pictured Rocks for some backcountry camping. You can bet our packing list will be revised, with a much heavier emphasis on "lessons learned from Nordhouse." More strategically chosen layers, perhaps a better-insulated sleeping pad, and maybe even some research into portable camp heaters (just kidding... mostly).
Nordhouse Dunes was a beautiful, chilly, and ultimately rewarding adventure. It reminded us that nature is always in charge, that preparation is key, and that sometimes, the most memorable moments are the ones where you're huddled together, laughing about how incredibly cold you are, with a multi-million dollar view just outside your tent flap.
What are your essential cold-weather camping tips? Share them in the comments below!
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